Friday, June 7, 2013

Sun Shines on Trongsa

In my head I have somehow developed a belief that Bhutan is a land of cold weather, pine trees, traditional Bhutanese homes, people wearing handwoven kiras and ghos living in sparsely populated villages. I wonder why? This describes Chumey where we live in the region of Bumthang, and it feels like Bumthang is Bhutan to me as this is where we are immersed.

So when I come to Trongsa, just one and a half hours away, I have this strange feeling that I'm not in Bhutan any longer - which is quite ridiculous, because Trongsa is very much a part of Bhutan, and what I have to come to understand is that Bhutan although small, is a very varied country in terms of climate, people, customs, language and geography. I thought about it in terms of Australia - if a visitor thought that Tasmania (where I was born) was what Australia was all about they would have such a narrow view that doesn't encompass sunny Queensland (where our home is now) let alone all the other diversity throughout the rest of the country.

Later in the year I hope to go over the high Thrumsing-la mountain pass to see the east of Bhutan - I am tantalised by photos posted by our fellow teacher Colin in Yadi which are so different to here.

But back to Trongsa. Our first excursion on Saturday morning was to the vegetable market to buy fruit - we have come to really appreciate whatever fruit is available and stock up as we can't buy it in Chumey.



Remy loves picking out the odd red chillies from the basket of green chillies!


With apples and bananas to eat we climbed hundreds of stairs straight up the hill towards Kyle's school - Trongsa Primary School.


Just a house we passed on the way up - I love the arrangements of flowers in pots.




When we arrived I just had to ask 'Where is Mr Kyle?' and a large group of students escorted us to where he and some kids were moving an enormous pile of papers they had found in the roof of the building he lives in from the days when it was the regional hospital.

Kyle's home was basic but good enough, and like Sarah he is happy with his accomodation. He has a room set up as a kitchen, a room with tables where he conducts after school classes and a bedroom with a bed made out of school desks.

Across the way was the library and I was fascinated to look inside at the very neatly arranged books - so many new and so many are ones I'd love to have in our library too. This library is more of a space for teachers to come and select books for their class rather than a place for children to browse (thus the tidiness).

Inpiration in the library.

 




Kyle showed us around the school and it was really interesting to see similarities and differences with mine. I was very impressed with the PP classroom which was very similar to an early childhood classroom at home - I had room-envy looking at the neat way resources had been stored, posters displayed, tables laid out, and all the space (and no holes in the floor to fall into!).

PP Classroom at Trongsa Primary School.


I saw this sign outside one of the classrooms and made one for our library as I soon as I got home.
Assembly ground.

The school grounds were beautifully decorated with flowers.
"Today is better than yesterday."

Mr Kyle and students.




One of Kyle's students from class 4, Saibin offered to walk back down to Trongsa with us - we chose to go the long way to see a different view than last time. On the way we chatted to Saibin who had excellent English, and moreover a confidence and eagerness to talk with us that is quite rare here. It turns out his ambition is to be a tour guide, so I think we were his guinea-pigs! He did such a good job, and I feel like he has exactly the right talents to achieve his dream - so study hard Saibin!


Lush views as we walked back down to Trongsa.

The river seemed to be rushing with monsoon rains.

Our guide, Saibin.


He took us to see the palace where the revered Fourth King was born. It is behind a large unlocked fence, and looks to be off limits to visitors, but he had connections that let us in for a quick peek. We saw the beautifully maintained gardens and thought it would be a lovely place to stay for a King - secluded behind a stone fence, but with views right onto the heart of Trongsa.

The front door of the palace.



Home where we were told the Fourth King was born.

The gardens were beautiful.

 


Kyle came to meet us in the afternoon and we went on a shopping expedition to nearly every shop in town to find skipping ropes. Having received three from a friend at home that were so well loved by the kids, I wanted to expand our collection. We found nine in town, and I also picked up some presents for Remy's birthday.


Something I saw while we were shopping...



Later Sarah and Valerie arrived after waiting hours for a lift. We went down to the Dzong for a quick look around. The Dzongda (Mayor) and friends were playing a game of archery just outside the Dzong - a most spectacular setting.



 
 
 
 


The Dzong is the administrative headquarters for Trongsa and also a monastery.



And who should we hear cock-a-doodle-doing when we approached the courtyard in the Dzong?
I was surprised to see a few of these Bottlebrush trees (Banksia) - native to Australia - how did they get here?


Dinner at the Oyster House rounded out the evening. I made the mistake of ordering fish - it is nothing like fish at home, horrible - mental note - don't bother ordering fish in the Himalayas!
 

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Tsangkha in the Clouds

Public buses in Bhutan are known colloquially as the 'Vomit Comet', and we had our first chance to try one out for the trip to Tsangkha last Friday. Leaving at 6.30am, we boarded and each found a seat, and I thought it wasn't too bad - the minibuses had comfortable seats and believe me I've travelled on a lot worse in India in years gone by! The fare for the 2.5 hour journey was only $2 each for Bob and I, kids travelled free.

I love how Bhutanese music is played loudly on all transport we take here: as I gazed out the window it was the perfect soundtrack for the journey which winds around pine forested mountains and drops down to deep unseen rivers below. But sure enough my reverie was interrupted by not one but both boys wanting to sit on my knee, and as these things follow, Xavier was feeling sick. The roads here are constantly windy and although Xavier had never shown signs of motion sickness at home, Bhutan is the ultimate test! Let's just say that the Vomit Comet lived up to its reputation and if we are to venture further in Bhutan we are going to have to go by some type of private transport!

Anyway, soon enough we arrived in Tsangkha which is about 45 minutes further on than Trongsa towards Thimphu. Our BCF friend Sarah lives here, and Valerie who lives in Rukubji a couple of hours on met us as we got off the bus, very happy to have arrived.

We started with tea and biscuits at Sarah's place - a simple and traditional house on the side of a steep mountain side. Overnight rain had poured through the ceiling and the floor was wet. Within a moment's survey we realised how fortunate we are to live in our spacious, warm and dry new house. But Sarah is happy with her accomodation which while basic is authentic and comfortable enough. The boys were fascinated that as we sat around drinking tea and dunking biscuits, the clouds were actually coming through the window into the room! Very cool!

Valerie, Ugyen, Bob, Xavier and Remy.


The photos below tell the story of our day in Tsangkha, and we really enjoyed having Sarah and her housemate Ugyen show us around.

Preparing for our walk in the rain and clouds.




The house next to Sarah's enveloped in clouds.


We had fun posing for our photo of the day - 'Four Things' - this wasn't the final selection but it is still a lovely pic.
 
 

Gushing waterfall, just by the side of the highway!

The National Elections were held on Friday (that's why we had a holiday).

 We were lucky to see insided the Lhakang at Tshangkha, Sarah teaches English to the monks and they went to get the key. It has an amazingly huge statue of Chenrezig - the Buddha of compassion - with 1000 arms.




Cheers!

 Lunch at a little restaurant was delicious - red rice, saag (greens), ema-datsi and kewa-datsi.

What a backdrop - clouds and Himalayas!

We thought this sign was very cute - infront of a rubbish pit - 'Use me la' - la adds politeness to everything in Bhutan.

The view from the Lhakang back towards Tsangkha.


We visited Sarah's school and were invited for tea by the Principal. His wife showed us a kira she has nearly finished weaving. A deep plum colour with delicate patterns woven in. I find it fascinating how the fabric is made in this way. I wish I had time to learn this skill while I was living here, as Bumthang is the heart of weaving in Bhutan.
 
 
Kiras are usually made in two pieces - the first is finished - and then carefully sewn together in a way you don't notice the seam.
 
 
After a long day with Sarah and Val we needed to get back to Trongsa, although there were no taxis to be found and barely a car on the road. Luckily a family driving through from Thimphu stopped for us - they had to squish up with children on their laps to fit us, we were very lucky. We enjoyed the conversation with them all the way back to Trongsa, and their little baby who had been restless after a long day driving found us interesting enough to stop crying! Win Win!!
 
Coming soon: Sun Shines on Trongsa

Sunday, June 2, 2013

May Photo-a-Day

The end of May marks the end of our fourth month in Bhutan and fifth month away from home - which leaves about seven months to go in our year long adventure.

I remember when I lived in Japan it took four months to really settle in - to find new rhythms of life, make friends, adapt to all the differences at work. And again, at the four month mark we are also feeling settled here, feel like our house is our home, and everything seems less strange. Friendships with co-workers are starting to grow, and the connections we made with our other BCF teachers have been consolidated over many a phone call, text and a lovely catch up mid May in Wangdi.

Taking my photos each day is a little creative task I enjoy, and the best part is uploading the photo from my phone to the FMS facebook group to share it with the group and receive feedback, encouragement and inspiration. I also love seeing how people around the world interpret the prompts and I have a window on to the life I miss at home (thanks to my friend Sarah and all her photos that include the beach!).




1 - I bought this
A teacher at school brought this in to sell - a kira handwoven by her sister.

2 - Morning Ritual
It was the school Rimdro (purification ceremony) and this was the beginning of the ritual in the morning.
3 - This is really good!
I went to the post office and had 6 parcels to collect, 5 from FMS members full of supplies for school. The power of good!


4 - In my cup
Lunch in Chamkar - momos and Red Panda!
 
5 - Paper
I hid a geocache in our village and this is the introduction note that goes inside.


6 - Broken
Windows for all the primary school classrooms have long been broken

7 - Something starting with F
I went for the quadruple word score this day with fence, field, farmhouse and forest. Another FMS member suggested fauna as well!
8 - Shape
This shape is called the Endless Knot and is one of the eight auspicious symbols of Buddhism. It is made as an offerring for wisdom and it makes sense that it is on the school gate.

9 - Snack
We were travelling to Wangdue and stopped on the way for a snack at a road-side stall - momos, coffee, boiled eggs and chips.

 
10 - Stars
I stepped out of the book fair at the end of a long day and this was the first thing I saw - a school bus with stars - perfect!


11- Smile
Not one but three radiant smiles under a bodhi-tree at Chimi Lhakang, near Punakha.

12 - Mother
This is how all the local mums carry their bubs, so they are handsfree.

13 - Sunrise/Sunset
Sunset over Dhomkar village.

 14 - Need
We need handrails for our three flights of stairs!


15 - 7 O'Clock
7am and I am supervising students eating rice for breakfast as I am Teacher On Duty.


16 - Mailbox
Some of the huge assortment of stationery I have in the library now thanks to all the mailboxes that have arrived from friends around the world.

17 - Season
I have watched these plants in our assembly area transform from dead sticks to leafy bushes. Two weeks later there are flower buds!

18 - Want
I've had a feeling in my heart lately, do I want another child?


19 - My favourite view
We had a wonderful day out that included a hike to this river - completely peaceful and gorgeous scenery.

20 - Light
An unusually bright sunny day sparkling on the water in the stream I cross on way to school.

 
 

21 - I care about this
I realised this week how much I care for these kids when I found out they had all been beaten with a cane. I did what I had to do to protect them from it happening again.

22 - Change
A change in the weather (monsoon is here) means a change in footwear.

23 - PJs
Remy is a superhero by day and night.

24 - Go
Fun to go out in a taxi for dinner on Friday night.

25 - Us
A photo taken near Nimalung Monastery of us - Bob and I in national dress.

26 - Fave thing to do on a Sunday
After pancakes, tea, reading, we planted some herb seeds that came all the way from home.

27 - Can't live without
Hope - sunshine after the rain - the symbolism of the rainbow over the school reminds me that every day things will improve.
 .
28 - What I'm doing now
Leaving the visit to a teacher's house where we paid our respects on the passing of his grandmother.
 
29 - Kiss
I accepted the challenge of an FMS member to have a black and white photo for 'Kiss'. Remy was very excited to see Valerie.

30 - Tool
I have just enough tools and ingredients to make a carrot cake.
 
 


31 - Four things
Walking in the rain and clouds in Tsangkha with Sarah, Ugyen and Val.


Its hard to choose a favourite, but I do love this last one, and it was a really happy day we'll remember for a long time. Having these photos (and the thought and fun that goes into taking them) will be such a great souvenir of our time in Bhutan.