BCF Summer Retreat and Tharpa Ling

At the very start of our summer holidays, Bhutan Canada Foundation hosted a three day retreat for all of us teachers at the River Lodge in Chamkar, just 40 minutes up the road for us. For some of the others this was at least one days travel, if not more, and many of the teachers we hadn’t seen since early February when we all went our separate ways.

To say I was excited to see them all is an understatement! And Remy had been saying for two weeks ‘I can’t wait any wonger!’. The first evening of our get together was a big party, catered beautifully by the River Lodge girls (on another post I will show you how to make ‘puta’ buckwheat noodles that Yeshi taught me before everyone arrived). But the host with the most was Mark, a friend who has lived on and off in Bhutan for 20 something years since his days as a volunteer teacher in the far east. He arrived with Nancy, the BCF director with a fridge full of imported wine and spirits, cheese and salami and crackers, coffee and bagels – you can’t imagine!

The first of us to arrive - the Chisholms and Colin and Lee with his puppy Chiang-Lu.

 

 

 

 

We danced and enjoyed ourselves til late, but were up early and in my case a bit worse for wear for the trip to Tang Valley. We have done this trip a couple of times already but as it is some of the most beautiful scenery in Bhutan we happily went again, first stopping at Membartsho and then continuing on up the valley to Ugyen Choling Palace.

Senge meditating at Membartsho.

Some of us walked part of the way to Ugyen Choling and Sarah had a go at helping a family with their threshing!

Ashi Kunzang Choden, who grew up in this former palace spoke to us of the history of the place and afterwards hosted an amazing buffet lunch of Bhutanese favourite dishes. It was so satisfying to sit on the rustic fence with our far-flung friends enjoying such a delicious feast and awesome view. Thank you BCF for arranging to bring us all together and giving us the opportunity to have such a lovely day!
 

 

 

Our retreat was over in a flash and we were all in a flurry to head in different directions across the country. Those who live west travelled east, those who live east travelled west as we did. But before leaving we enjoyed a couple of days locally to show our friends the beauty of Bumthang.

Our first adventure was to Tharpa Ling Monastery, about 40 mins from Chumey, high on a mountainside. We hadn’t been there before and had been waiting for an opportunity like this to go with a group of friends. Our friend Senge-la – a British BCF teacher and ordained Buddhist monk planned to go there to stay for a few days of his holiday so it was nice to accompany him and wish him well.

Bob, Senge, Sarah, Matt and Lucy approached Tharpa Ling from the Chamkar side and trekked up the hill, while Heather, her husband Rob who was visiting from Canada, Xavier, Remy and I took a taxi from Chumey. Bob was crazy enough to carry his bike up the mountain with help from Matt as he was looking forward to the 14km downhill ride on the other side. I know for sure that Sarah thought he was absolutely crazy to attempt it, and even Bob had moments of wondering what he’d got himself into.

The roof of Tharpa Ling as we climbed higher on the hill.

Heather and the boys walking.

Wild Asters growing by the path.

Rob very kindly carried Remy most of the way.

 

 

As they ascended one side of the mountain, we were also climbing the 30 minutes or so above Tharpa Ling to the crest of the mountain, Remy riding on Rob’s shoulders, and can you believe that at the very moment we peered over the peak, there was Bob, Senge, Matt, Lucy and Sarah arriving at the same time! So perfect! Bob was exhilarated after the climb with his bike, and we were both keen to see the view down the other side of the mountain – we could see all the way down to Chamkar and they were looking down on the monastery.

He felt pretty good to have made it to the top!

Senge played around offering Bob a prayer flag like a sacred white scarf.

Matt built up a sweat helping carry Bob's bike to the top!

Sarah, Matt and Remy at the top.

This walk was good training for Xavier for climbing Taktsang the following week.

View from the top down to Chamkar.


 

We had a picnic under the prayer flags at the top of the mountain below a shrine and then continued down to look at the monastery and leave Senge at his new home for the start of his holiday.

Xavier walking back with Lucy.

 

 

Change

Change can be hard! In our new home in Chumey we are learning new ways to do just about everything such as cooking, bathing, heating our home, shopping, communicating, purifying water etc. At times it can feel a bit overwhelming, but fortunately we are not alone in this experience and it has helped to have friends amongst our BCF crew to talk with and realise these ‘growing pains’ are normal.

 

Lunch with Kyle and Sarah in our lounge room - we still have no furniture!

 

Having our new friends visit and stay at our home has been a highlight and our dear friend Thubten Senge-la, a Buddhist monk and teacher from the UK posted here in Kabesa came to stay for a few days and in amongst ballet dancing with the boys and rapping ‘The Gruffalo’, had a few moments to help me connect with the reasons why we chose to come for this ‘life changing experience’ of living in Bhutan for a year.

Remy looks pretty cute having his bath by the fire - we don't have hot running water so we heat water on top of the wood heater and then bathe by the fire as its too cold in the bathroom. You wouldn't want to see the photo of what I look like squashed in that tub!!!!

 

Looking at things with a fresh approach helped me see that all these experiences that are pushing my buttons are exactly what I wanted – an opportunity to live life at that edge where personal growth is possible. I’m sure it is not going to be easy or comfortable, but I can already feel some positive transformations in my mind – that come from finding strength to overcome obstacles. So far the challenges have really been quite small, nothing much more than physical discomforts, and I hope that the rest of the year reveals the type of challenges that we can face and overcome and still have a smile on our face at the end!

Below are some photos of the many highlights of the past two weeks:

Learning how to skim rocks at the creek in Chumey.

The river flowing through Chumey is so beautiful and clear although icy cold!

Celebrating Losar (Bhutanese New Year) with Principal and family - lunch in the sun.

Vegetable shopping, Chumey-style: we've had beans, tomatoes, potatoes, cauliflower, cabbage, onions and of course, chillies!

 

Bob, Remy and I in the snow with our house in the background (we live on the left half of the top floor).

View down the main street of Chumey (also the National Highway).

 Bob, Remy and Thubten Senge-la in the snow.

 Visiting Membartso - The Flaming Lake - a famous historical Buddhist site and one that we have learned about by reading Kunzang Choden's children's book called 'Membartso'. The kids were excited to see it in real life.

We seem to be accompanied by monks wherever we go - our taxi driver Mrs Jampel - a very gutsy driver, brought her friend along for the ride through the Tang Valley - just in case we needed some help to push the car up the rocky roads (and we did!).

Tang Rinpochen Lhakang Monastery in the Tang Valley is built up against a big rock, so it is a bit unusual to walk around the back between the tall rock and wall towards the prayer wheels.

Steep and tall ladders inside the Ugyen Choling Museum.

The picture probably doesn't do it justice, but we thought this might be the most beautiful spot in the world for a picnic - the views of the Tang Valley were amazing and a must see for all visitors to Bhutan - at Ugyen Choling.

How about this amazing view, from Ugyen Choling!

Xavier on top of the world!

Icecreams at the Nomad Festival yesterday - these kids can spy a 'special treat' from a mile away, even somewhere as remote as this - I have no idea how the freezer was brought in!

Trying the local buckwheat noodles with our new Japanese friends, fellow volunteers in Bhutan.

Xavier having a go at the local Javelin at festival.

Traditional mask dancing at the Nomad Festival.

 I've finished this blog in quite a rush in amongst internet dropouts and power failures at the River Lodge in Jakar where we've stayed for the weekend to enjoy a hot shower, good food and a break from the hard work of life in Chumey. We still don't have internet in Chumey and aren't likely to for a while so unfortunately I can't blog as much as I'd like, still I am encouraged by the emails and messages I've received and thanks for reading!