October Photo-A-Day

Today is a holiday in Bhutan to commemorate the Coronation of His Majesty the 5th King of Bhutan. It's the 1st of November! It means the year is really coming to an end, and that means this dreamlike existence in the Himalayas is swiftly ending too.

After ten months, this life feels like home for us.  It is so familiar and we're comfortable. What felt so strange to begin with is just normal now. We have friends and in particular this month have found ourselves invited to a number of events that make us feel a real part of the community.

I don't even want to think about how few days I have left with the little children who have been my reason to dress up in my kira each day and head into our little classroom. My heart is breaking at the thought of leaving them behind. If there was a way to take them with me I would. But Bhutan is their home, so I think I'll have to find ways of visiting them here in the future to see where life takes them.

November promises a number of exciting adventures and I look forward to documenting them in my next group of photos. But for now, here are the October photos-a-day...

1. Something Colourful
Handwoven 'yathra' wares at the shop in Zugney near here.

2. Light
Every morning incense is burned at the school assembly to purify the place.

3. You today
Taken by Yeshi, one of my students. I'll really miss wearing these bright colours when I come home.

4 - In Motion
Cows are always on the move, grazing by the side of the road.

 

5 - Afternoon
An afternoon walk turned into quite an adventure with Xavier and Bob's mum. We were caught in a downpour and walked through this wet field ankle deep in mud. We had to find our way through forest where the path disappeared and when the path was there it was narrow and there was a big drop to the river below. What was I thinking?! Finally we had to cross a fast flowing waterfall to make it to the bridge to get home. Luckily we didn't see any bears!

 

6 - 8 O'Clock
Leaving home and walking to school with the kids.

7 - What you saw today
An after school walk to Umsang village - magnificent views.

8 - Corner
Sad news today made me realise we do not know what lies around the corner.

9 - Pink
These pink beads sent by an FMS friend are treasured by girls at school.

10 - Hands
You have to trust the hands of your friends. Trimming the trees at school.

11 - M is for
Money! Four different currencies in my purse. Won't be long til the Baht and Ringgit come in handy!

12 - Below
Looking down the steep ladder at the front door of a village house at Umsang.

13 - Watching
We (and everyone else) are watching the tshechu at Jakar Dzong.

 

14 - Favourite Space
We chose a favourite space to hang prayer flags to honour the life of our friend's partner. RIP Billa.

 

15 - Secret
Everyone in Chumey knew a secret about the special event to be held at Domkhar Palace.

 

16 - Leafy
A favourite stretch of the road home - so leafy at this time of year.

17 - First World Problem
How lucky are we to not be bothered with first world problems here! But this clock at school, with four clocks all stuck and telling the wrong time really gets to me. In Bhutan though it doesn't seem to bother anyone else!

18 - Still
This basket of vibrant mandarins reminded me of a still life painting. Maybe I can get out the oils when we go home?

 

19 - A good day
Another day to enjoy a tshechu at Jampey Lhakang. I love these celebrations of Bhutanese culture.

20 - Open
This time at Prakhar tshechu - a monk leans far out the open window while banging a drum!

21 - Then and Now
I was offered a number of beverages at Prakhar tshechu. Here is my beer - it is very hard to empty a cup here to get the empty photo - everyone tries their hardest to keep refilling!

22 - Change
This is the change I came to Bhutan for. Writing sample on the left from the first week of school, and sample on the right from the same girl last week. She's come a long way!

 

23 - Your mood today
Good!

 

24 - Dark
These turnips were harvested today - after months in the dark they see the light of day.

25 - Welcome
A welcome gate for special visitors.

 

26 - Depth of Field
Looking through a fence to Numbor Lhakang in the distance.

27 - Peaceful
We live so close to peaceful nature - this raging river is a minute from home.

 

28 - Just for you
Bob bought my return plane ticket for the trip I'll take by myself next weekend to Paro. A trip just for me.

29 - Hair
All students in Bhutan abide by strict rules regarding hair length (shoulders for girls and 1 inch for boys) and style (no trendy Korean styles for boys or coloured hair ties for girls).

30 - Wet
The boys love to play with the spring water that comes from this pipe and an empty bottle - so simple.

31 - Treat
No signs of Halloween around here, but I still bought the boys a treat on the way home - a jalebi.

Do you have a favourite?

 

Ten things I love about our life in Bhutan... and what I miss about Australia

We have passed the half-way mark in our year in Bhutan and have about four and a half months left to enjoy.

I wanted to write down and share the things that are really special and unique in our simple life here. There may not be a time in our life again like this, so it’s important to smell the roses!

1.       Time – even though I work full-time (five and a half days a week) I still seem to have more time than I had at home. I wake up and have a couple of hours to enjoy the day, even make pancakes before getting ready for school. There is no time wasted commuting to work, watching television, and lately little time wasted cruising the internet as it hasn’t been working reliably. I have time to spend with the kids even though I am a working mum, I have time to enjoy cooking, reading, an occasional walk. Life never feels rushed; we live at a leisurely pace.

A love letter from Remy - 'I love you from Remy'

2.      Convenience – When I opened the fridge at 6am the other morning ready to make a cake to take to a picnic, there were no eggs. No problem! Bob went for a walk and found a dozen eggs at one of the local shops a minute’s walk over the road. Shops are operated at the front of people’s homes, so as long as someone’s awake they are open. At any time we can run out to buy milk, cheese or more chillies!

3.       Walking to school – it takes me only five leisurely minutes (or ten with Xavier) to walk to school. On the way I pass villagers who always smile and offer a Kuzuzangpo! or Hello Madam! Even toddlers wave and say hello and know our names. Day by day the scenery changes subtly with the seasons – from bare and brown in winter to lush and green right now. Planting and harvesting and the daily chores all take place as I walk past.

Village houses we pass on way to school.

Most days there are horses and cows grazing along the side of the road on the way to school.

Walking to school with Xavier.

 

 

4.       No temptations – at home we are bombarded by advertising in all its forms: junk mail, television, window shopping, emails etc. It’s not hard to be convinced that you really need that new whats-a-ma-callit and rush out to buy. Here the only advertising we see is on Indian cable television – and ironically most of the products are not available here – so that is that. The western clothes that are available in Chamkar or even Thimphu are not to my taste – mainly cheap synthetic imports from China with strange English all over them, so again I’m not moved.

5.       Meeting for lunch – every school day Xavier and I meet Bob and Remy for lunch. Sometimes Bob packs a picnic and meets us at school and the boys have a play with the school kids. Many days we come home and Bob has something warm and tasty ready and a cup of tea. Other days we go to one of the two unnamed or signed huts across from the school that sell snacks – cheese momos or aloo chop (deep fried potato balls) or puri and sabji (fried flat bread and vegetable curry), washed down with a cup of tea and a chat with whoever is also there for lunch.

Bob and Remy riding to school to meet us (Bob made a wooden child seat for Remy as none were available here!)

 

6.     Living in pristine nature - we breathe fresh, clean mountain air, and our eyes are greeted with such beautiful scenery every day. A raging river passes near our house, travelling from the high Tibetan plateau on its journey to India and beyond. The glory of the Himalayas is right on our doorstep and there are many places to walk in every direction from our home. We've been gorging lately on a few varieties of wild berries, and I think it is wonderful for the boys to have this opportunity which is not part of city life.

A favourite place to play is down by the river.

Remy enjoys a simple game of throwing big rocks in the river!

Walking to the monastery up above our home.

 

 

7.       Meeting new and interesting people - this year has opened up our lives to so many new friends. We know just about every person in Chumey village and are always greeted with respect and friendliness wherever we go. The friendships we've struck up with our fellow BCF teachers and other foreigners in the country, as often happens when one is an expatriate, are close and ones we'll treasure for the rest of our lives.

Tshewang (helping cut grass at school) is the boy's favourite friend.

Every day kids from all different classes bring me special presents. Karma painted a beautiful rainbow.

Karma and Rozi organised a picnic for us at our nearby monastery.

Rozi looking very beautiful!

Rozi Naa so colourful and pretty.

Karma is one of Xavier's special 'girlfriends'.

Sharing a picnic in the enchanted forest.

What's the time Mr Wolf?

I love these kids, and their laughter and antics make me smile everyday.

All our BCF buddies - not sure who took this photo on the day?

8.        Good Health - in planning this trip my primary concern was for the children's health living in a 'developing country'. Touch wood, the boys haven't even had a single cough or cold or year. Maybe its the mountain air, the simple unprocessed food we eat, the lack of urban air-conditioned environments, the low population density and regularly having a long good night's sleep, but we and everyone else here seems to be in robust good health. I pray for this to continue for the next few months!

In excellent health, on one of our shopping trips to Chamkar they had to just strike a pose!

I took this photo of Xavier yesterday, he has grown so much.

Feeling tip-top!

9.        Life-long learning  - Here everyday brings something new. New food, new language to learn, new challenges at school, new opportunities, new people. We are living outside our comfort zone and for all of us it is an opportunity to learn and grow.

Buddhist philosophies are a great source of inspiration.

10. Living with seasons - coming from a tropical climate that doesn't change much in the course of a year, it is fascinating to watch the day by change in temperature and corresponding change in scenery and even smells of the village and the accompanying festivals and rituals that are part of traditional life. I can imagine the feeling of security and peace this brings for people who have lived here all their lives.

Beautiful hibiscus (?) in bloom at school.

Students recently planted 800 hazelnut saplings.

Summer abundance at the markets.

Local gardens are a riot of colour in summer.

My favourite flowers, sunflowers, are everywhere!

Strings of 'chugo' dried cheese, drying in the sun.

 

 

This post wouldn’t be complete without listing a few of the things that I miss from home and know I will appreciate all the more after our year here.

1.       Friends and Family – there’s nothing to replace the relationships we have with our friends and family at home. We are lucky to have a large extended family which finds lots of opportunities to get together for a picnic or a barbecue on the weekend. And I miss my girl friends who I used to hang out with through the week with the kids – talking, drinking coffee and more talking. I miss the friendships and camaraderie of my teaching colleagues in Australia too – finding ways to learn from each other and improve our teaching and share what’s working (or not working).

2.       English – I miss being in a place where English is the main language spoken on all occasions. We are lucky here that at least at school everyone can converse in English, but when it comes down to it, at every function we attend either at school or socially, Dzongkha or Bumthap is the language spoken and we miss out on understanding, and also interacting. I love going to social gatherings with the ladies, but feel sad to be the wallflower watching as everyone else catches up and I must depend on someone translating for me to be part of the conversation.

3.       Reliable running water and electricity – something we don’t give a second thought in Australia. There is always water, hot and cold, day and night, and there is always power. Here when I wake up I feel a little surge of joy when I realise that we have both water and power – a great start to a day. Bob has carried buckets of water up three flights of stairs more often than he cares to count just so we can wash the dishes and flush the toilet. We have learned to live with it, but I won’t miss the inconvenience.

4.       Warmth – I am a summer girl, I love the feel of sun and sweat on my skin, love to wear shorts and singlets and summer dresses with sandals. Even here in Bumthang, in summer the temperature seems to hover around 22- 24 degrees. It’s pleasant and comfortable but not hot. I can’t wait to swim in the sea, swim in our pool and feel the contrast of the crisp refreshing coolness on a hot day.

5.       Food – I have really discovered some new favourite foods here, and have perhaps developed a life-long addiction to chilli, but when it comes down to it, I miss the food of home. Breakfast is the hardest meal of the day for me here – no fresh wholemeal/sourdough/rye bread, no thick greek yoghurt, no homemade granola (I tried to make it but it’s not the same). Our Burleigh Farmer’s Markets are abundant every weekend with every type of fruit and vegetable you can think of. Supermarkets sell all sorts of products that make cooking a breeze, and I also love browsing the Asian supermarkets for interesting ingredients to bring back memories of holidays in Asia. So much choice and variety!

 

I think we are thoroughly blessed in our life to be able to take the opportunity for one year to step out of all that is familiar and comfortable to experience a completely different way of life. As you can see, there are many things that make life here so special and have allowed us to really spend quality time together as a family. Nearly every  night I have a dream of being home doing something mundane and wishing I was back in Bhutan, so I know that Bhutan is leaving a deep impression on my psyche.

How lucky we are though, to call Australia home – there is no doubt we are the ‘lucky’ country and we’ve all had a chance to have a wake-up call and realise how good we have it there. It will be interesting to see how we make subtle changes to life in Australia to bring a little of the magic of Bhutan with us.