Showing posts with label Gross National Happiness. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gross National Happiness. Show all posts

Sunday, October 13, 2013

The Happiest Place?

I've seen my name mentioned a couple of times this week. It started with having an article published about our Bhutanese journey on the Australian Women's Weekly website. Then this morning (a public holiday in Bhutan for Dassain festival) I had the time to read through some blogs I follow. A popular Bhutanese blogger, Langa Tenzin this week wrote a piece that mentioned Sabrina (last year's volunteer teacher at Chumey MSS) and I.

His post was interesting as it highlighted the phenomenon that we encounter regularly. It seems that every Bhutanese is keen to get themselves to Australia (and to a lesser extent, other western countries) as fast as they can. Most apply for further education and a scholarship, but for many this is a flimsy pretense for chasing the dream of working part-time while studying and coming back to Bhutan cashed up. Savings from a year or two of hard work in Australia far surpass what the average worker could make in a lifetime here. Of course that is going to be worth chasing!


In his blog, Langa ponders why foreigners like us and the other volunteers who come to Bhutan swap our salaries and the comforts of home to live a more simple life here. Its true that many people who live in western countries wouldn't dream of doing what we're doing, but on the other hand, a growing number of foreigners who have lived comfortable lives and who have an average salary realise is that there is more to life than comfort. We are fortunate to have the means to explore other ways of living.

Having skills to offer a developing country, we can feel a real sense of worth, and personally this has been my greatest motivator for being here. The children I have taught have been exposed to new ways of learning, thinking and communicating and have had their eyes opened to the big world outside Bhutan. I have shared ideas and teaching skills with my colleagues. I've no doubt I will leave a legacy of a new generation of children here who want to visit Australia!

Another important reason for coming here was to move outside the comfort zone. When you stretch and challenge yourself you open your life up to bigger and richer experiences. I have experienced extreme lows and highs this year, and it was from the lows particularly that I've gained the most. It wasn't easy in the beginning but now we are so used to life here in Chumey I am expecting we'll all experience reverse culture shock when we return home. I think it will be hard to adjust to the faster pace of life, the anonymity of living in a large city and the need to drive to get everywhere.

Those who commented on Langa's post referred to the Bhutanese government's policy of Gross National Happiness and I've wanted to write about this for a while. Before coming to Bhutan I was seduced by the idea that Bhutan is the happiest place in the world. I wanted a slice of that for myself.

In reality it has been harder to see that for ourselves. Perhaps tourists who visit fleetingly can gain a greater sense of this than us who see the sometimes harsh realities of life in a small village. We see the same ills that drain happiness from lives of people all around the world: poverty, domestic violence, child mortality, shorter life expectancy, alcoholism and drug addiction, illness, theft  and more. However, we see happiness in the lives of people in belonging to a community, sharing the celebrations of life and death with friends and colleagues, and a devotion and faith in Buddhism.

What Bhutan is doing differently and what will hopefully lead to a sense of 'contentment' is  protecting and promoting the four pillars of GNH: sustainable development, cultural integrity, ecosystem conservation, and good governance. By securing these areas which have been determined to be the causes of happiness (for everyone, not just for Bhutanese) the future is looking bright here. I read a recent article in the New York Times about the direction the newly elected Prime Minister of Bhutan is leading Bhutan. He is quoted as saying "Rather than talking about happiness, we want to work on reducing the obstacles to happiness”. I found this article very inspiring and it looks like this new direction and a strong leader is just what the country needs.

Western economic policy (of which I won't even pretend to understand) always seems to be talking of growth and 'consumer spending'. This just sounds like we're seeking pleasure from buying more and more at the expense of the environment, family lives and community. I think in the west we've got enough economic prosperity and its time to focus on our own pillars of happiness before it is too late.

I feel so blessed to have made a deep connection with this obscure and tiny country in the himalayas. I have no doubt Bhutan will be a place in my heart for the rest of my life. I will always feel connected to this country's future through the children I taught. I feel quite hopeful that 'inshallah' we'll have the chance to return someday in some capacity to see the Bhutan of the future. I look forward to keep in touch with the voice of Bhutan through the bloggers and Bhutanese facebook groups I've joined. Name-same kadinche la Bhutan and may everyone be happy!

Friday, August 9, 2013

Ten things I love about our life in Bhutan... and what I miss about Australia

We have passed the half-way mark in our year in Bhutan and have about four and a half months left to enjoy.

I wanted to write down and share the things that are really special and unique in our simple life here. There may not be a time in our life again like this, so it’s important to smell the roses!

1.       Time – even though I work full-time (five and a half days a week) I still seem to have more time than I had at home. I wake up and have a couple of hours to enjoy the day, even make pancakes before getting ready for school. There is no time wasted commuting to work, watching television, and lately little time wasted cruising the internet as it hasn’t been working reliably. I have time to spend with the kids even though I am a working mum, I have time to enjoy cooking, reading, an occasional walk. Life never feels rushed; we live at a leisurely pace.

A love letter from Remy - 'I love you from Remy'


2.      Convenience – When I opened the fridge at 6am the other morning ready to make a cake to take to a picnic, there were no eggs. No problem! Bob went for a walk and found a dozen eggs at one of the local shops a minute’s walk over the road. Shops are operated at the front of people’s homes, so as long as someone’s awake they are open. At any time we can run out to buy milk, cheese or more chillies!

3.       Walking to school – it takes me only five leisurely minutes (or ten with Xavier) to walk to school. On the way I pass villagers who always smile and offer a Kuzuzangpo! or Hello Madam! Even toddlers wave and say hello and know our names. Day by day the scenery changes subtly with the seasons – from bare and brown in winter to lush and green right now. Planting and harvesting and the daily chores all take place as I walk past.

Village houses we pass on way to school.

Most days there are horses and cows grazing along the side of the road on the way to school.

Walking to school with Xavier.

 
 

4.       No temptations – at home we are bombarded by advertising in all its forms: junk mail, television, window shopping, emails etc. It’s not hard to be convinced that you really need that new whats-a-ma-callit and rush out to buy. Here the only advertising we see is on Indian cable television – and ironically most of the products are not available here – so that is that. The western clothes that are available in Chamkar or even Thimphu are not to my taste – mainly cheap synthetic imports from China with strange English all over them, so again I’m not moved.

5.       Meeting for lunch – every school day Xavier and I meet Bob and Remy for lunch. Sometimes Bob packs a picnic and meets us at school and the boys have a play with the school kids. Many days we come home and Bob has something warm and tasty ready and a cup of tea. Other days we go to one of the two unnamed or signed huts across from the school that sell snacks – cheese momos or aloo chop (deep fried potato balls) or puri and sabji (fried flat bread and vegetable curry), washed down with a cup of tea and a chat with whoever is also there for lunch.

Bob and Remy riding to school to meet us (Bob made a wooden child seat for Remy as none were available here!)

 
6.     Living in pristine nature - we breathe fresh, clean mountain air, and our eyes are greeted with such beautiful scenery every day. A raging river passes near our house, travelling from the high Tibetan plateau on its journey to India and beyond. The glory of the Himalayas is right on our doorstep and there are many places to walk in every direction from our home. We've been gorging lately on a few varieties of wild berries, and I think it is wonderful for the boys to have this opportunity which is not part of city life.

A favourite place to play is down by the river.

Remy enjoys a simple game of throwing big rocks in the river!

Walking to the monastery up above our home.

 

 
7.       Meeting new and interesting people - this year has opened up our lives to so many new friends. We know just about every person in Chumey village and are always greeted with respect and friendliness wherever we go. The friendships we've struck up with our fellow BCF teachers and other foreigners in the country, as often happens when one is an expatriate, are close and ones we'll treasure for the rest of our lives.

Tshewang (helping cut grass at school) is the boy's favourite friend.

Every day kids from all different classes bring me special presents. Karma painted a beautiful rainbow.

Karma and Rozi organised a picnic for us at our nearby monastery.

Rozi looking very beautiful!

Rozi Naa so colourful and pretty.

Karma is one of Xavier's special 'girlfriends'.

Sharing a picnic in the enchanted forest.

What's the time Mr Wolf?

I love these kids, and their laughter and antics make me smile everyday.
All our BCF buddies - not sure who took this photo on the day?



8.        Good Health - in planning this trip my primary concern was for the children's health living in a 'developing country'. Touch wood, the boys haven't even had a single cough or cold or year. Maybe its the mountain air, the simple unprocessed food we eat, the lack of urban air-conditioned environments, the low population density and regularly having a long good night's sleep, but we and everyone else here seems to be in robust good health. I pray for this to continue for the next few months!

In excellent health, on one of our shopping trips to Chamkar they had to just strike a pose!

I took this photo of Xavier yesterday, he has grown so much.
Feeling tip-top!


9.        Life-long learning  - Here everyday brings something new. New food, new language to learn, new challenges at school, new opportunities, new people. We are living outside our comfort zone and for all of us it is an opportunity to learn and grow.

Buddhist philosophies are a great source of inspiration.


10. Living with seasons - coming from a tropical climate that doesn't change much in the course of a year, it is fascinating to watch the day by change in temperature and corresponding change in scenery and even smells of the village and the accompanying festivals and rituals that are part of traditional life. I can imagine the feeling of security and peace this brings for people who have lived here all their lives.

Beautiful hibiscus (?) in bloom at school.

Students recently planted 800 hazelnut saplings.

Summer abundance at the markets.

Local gardens are a riot of colour in summer.

My favourite flowers, sunflowers, are everywhere!

Strings of 'chugo' dried cheese, drying in the sun.
 
 
This post wouldn’t be complete without listing a few of the things that I miss from home and know I will appreciate all the more after our year here.

1.       Friends and Family – there’s nothing to replace the relationships we have with our friends and family at home. We are lucky to have a large extended family which finds lots of opportunities to get together for a picnic or a barbecue on the weekend. And I miss my girl friends who I used to hang out with through the week with the kids – talking, drinking coffee and more talking. I miss the friendships and camaraderie of my teaching colleagues in Australia too – finding ways to learn from each other and improve our teaching and share what’s working (or not working).

2.       English – I miss being in a place where English is the main language spoken on all occasions. We are lucky here that at least at school everyone can converse in English, but when it comes down to it, at every function we attend either at school or socially, Dzongkha or Bumthap is the language spoken and we miss out on understanding, and also interacting. I love going to social gatherings with the ladies, but feel sad to be the wallflower watching as everyone else catches up and I must depend on someone translating for me to be part of the conversation.

3.       Reliable running water and electricity – something we don’t give a second thought in Australia. There is always water, hot and cold, day and night, and there is always power. Here when I wake up I feel a little surge of joy when I realise that we have both water and power – a great start to a day. Bob has carried buckets of water up three flights of stairs more often than he cares to count just so we can wash the dishes and flush the toilet. We have learned to live with it, but I won’t miss the inconvenience.

4.       Warmth – I am a summer girl, I love the feel of sun and sweat on my skin, love to wear shorts and singlets and summer dresses with sandals. Even here in Bumthang, in summer the temperature seems to hover around 22- 24 degrees. It’s pleasant and comfortable but not hot. I can’t wait to swim in the sea, swim in our pool and feel the contrast of the crisp refreshing coolness on a hot day.

5.       Food – I have really discovered some new favourite foods here, and have perhaps developed a life-long addiction to chilli, but when it comes down to it, I miss the food of home. Breakfast is the hardest meal of the day for me here – no fresh wholemeal/sourdough/rye bread, no thick greek yoghurt, no homemade granola (I tried to make it but it’s not the same). Our Burleigh Farmer’s Markets are abundant every weekend with every type of fruit and vegetable you can think of. Supermarkets sell all sorts of products that make cooking a breeze, and I also love browsing the Asian supermarkets for interesting ingredients to bring back memories of holidays in Asia. So much choice and variety!

 

I think we are thoroughly blessed in our life to be able to take the opportunity for one year to step out of all that is familiar and comfortable to experience a completely different way of life. As you can see, there are many things that make life here so special and have allowed us to really spend quality time together as a family. Nearly every  night I have a dream of being home doing something mundane and wishing I was back in Bhutan, so I know that Bhutan is leaving a deep impression on my psyche.

How lucky we are though, to call Australia home – there is no doubt we are the ‘lucky’ country and we’ve all had a chance to have a wake-up call and realise how good we have it there. It will be interesting to see how we make subtle changes to life in Australia to bring a little of the magic of Bhutan with us.

Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Aungsang in the Rain

I found out yesterday that we would be having five days off work due to the second round of elections in Bhutan. Most teachers from my school are on official duty as polling booth officers around the country, and many students (who are over 18) need to travel to their home town to vote, so that means another break.

It was nice to have a relaxing start to the day and pack our snacks for a walk to a village over the other side of the river, high on the hill. Aungsang is the home of a few students from school who walk about thirty minutes each way to school every day, and I was intrigued to visit. I also heard that Aungsang is a GNH (Gross National Happiness) village and has had assistance to build a weaving room and library. I was particularly interested to check out the library.

The morning was a bit overcast, but at least dry as we set out. We crossed the river and walked up the rocky road that had a very gradual incline. The boys were full of energy and it wasn't long before patches of bright red strawberries appeared by the side of the road and all up and down the hillside. Just the incentive that the boys needed to keep walking up the hill, racing to be the first to find the next big, juicy strawberry!

Crossing the river, near our house.

 Looking across the river to our apartment building on the right - shows that we really are living in among the trees!

It's only the beginning of the monsoon, but fields are green and lush.


Xavier finds the first strawberry!

Wild strawberries were everywhere!

More than enough strawberries for everyone!
 

About half way, the rain started to come down, and luckily Bob had brought our two big umbrellas so it was actually very pleasant to take Xavier's hand and walk up to the village, slushing around in the mud. We were nearly there, when we saw a family out in the rain preparing a large plot of land for planting. It turned out one of my class 5 students was there with her little brother, getting soaked but seeming not to mind. They escorted us up to the village (Bob lent her our third umbrella) and she was very excited to invite us to her house for tea. We were very happy to take her up on the offer to take cover from the rain and warm up. We spent some time enjoying tea and biscuits by the bukhari and meeting children of the family. When we asked about whether they had a vegetable garden, one girl immediately grabbed a bag and ran outside to fill it with spinach for us, and we were invited to come back in a few months when other vegetables and fruit will be ready.

A warm place to dry out by the bukhari.

Bhutanese cats always love hiding under the bukhari!
 

Our host and her cute son enjoyed posing for photos.




 
 
Xavier was fascinated by the little boy who enjoyed Bob singing 'Round and round the garden goes the teddy bear' and tickling him.

Looking out over the orchard of apple, peach and walnut trees.



Yathra weaving loom had a beautiful view and was sheltered from the rain.



Vegetables included spinach, cauliflower, carrots, spring onions, beans and sunflowers.
 
 
 


The rain cleared a bit and we went to visit the weaving house and library. Five looms were set up for women to use and a large adjoining room was bare except for some colourful alphabet posters that had been put up. I'm guessing this is going to be the community library one day. For now just seven books that were donated by Chumey MSS were on a ledge in the weaving room. I immediately started thinking of how I can get more books for this library and also how I'd like to give all our children's toys to the community when we leave. I'm guessing that through the week, mothers come here to weave and their children amuse themselves - how nice it would be to have some toys to play with!

Large empty room crying out for a library!


The humble beginnings of the library.

Yathra weaving on the loom - I really like the pink!


One lady was weaving when we visited - it looks to me like the yathra have designs embroidered over the top, but they are woven in.
 
And orange yathra.
 
Home near the weaving room.

I have two friends still working on fundraising ideas for the school and I'm thinking that if it is ok with them, I'd like to use some of the funds to buy a selection of books to kick this library off. The population of the community is very small, but seeing as they have this lovely building, it is a shame that it is still so empty. A friend I have made through FMS Photo-a-day is raffling two hand-made quilts and proceeds will go to our school. Anyone interested in buying a ticket, or simply making a donation can contact me and I will pass on her email address - the raffle will be drawn at the end of June. 

Aungsang temple.

Xavier and Remy always love spinning the prayer wheels.
 

Walking home, Remy wanted to 'mud ski' - the road had turned to slush very quickly.




And looks like tomorrow we'll be heading west to Trongsa for a couple of days catching up with Kyle, Sarah D and Valerie. Can't wait!